Philippe Colin Chassagne Montrachet 2017

Treading the line between tradition and modernity from his shiny winery on the outskirts of Chassagne-Montrachet bordering Puligny, Philippe Colin produces outstanding wine on his eleven and a half hectares. A quiet and thoughtful man, whose qualities are reflected in his elegant wines, the emphasis here is on subtlety rather than power. 

This comes from some 15 parcels, that are made into two wines and then assembled – one assemblage of vines on Puligny side and the rest from the other side all of excellent quality.

Nice energy, it’s silky with a real lemon oil character and good length. Apple, quince and pear notes that are focused and refined. Beautifully structured, the bright acidity is balanced with a creamy, lingering finish. Rest and it will gain richness over the next 2 to 4 years.

Philippe makes his wines in a modernised winery on the outskirts of Chassagne. Philippe has been vinifying here under his own label since the Domaine Colin-Deleger was divided up between the two brothers, Philippe and Bruno in 2004. When their parents retired, the sons, who previously had been working together at the family property, decided to create their own respective domaines. As Philippe says, this was to allow him to do things ‘a sa maniere’. Having studied at the Lycee Viticole de Beaune, he joined the family directly afterwards in 1988. He was naturally more draw to working in the vines and the cellar, and it is here he has stayed ever since. His viticultural practices are much like those of many Burgundians of his generation. His lutte raisonnee is truly reasoned, that is to say he works closely with the Chambre d’Agriculture de la Cote d’Or to reduce the number of treatments used. The soil is tilled to keep weeds at bay and grass cover is encouraged in some parcels where vigour is a problem, to encourage competition, regulate the yield and keep the risk of rot to a minimum. Leaf plucking is a systematic feature of the viticultural calendar, as is green harvesting. At harvest time, Philippe has a selection table attached to the tractor in the vines (an unusual sight) and another beneath the destalker in the cellar, designed to remove any dried berries and pips. Philippe likes to bottle his wines early – after 10 to 12 months – to retain freshness and fruity character. His goal is to produce wines that are approachable now, rather than to age. 

Ageing potential, drink 2020-2024. 

2017   

13%

75cl